Elizabeth J Williams
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Elizabeth J Williams
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Aspen Winter & Spring travel guide

The best ski runs, restaurants, hotels, and shopping from five years of visiting Aspen

I’ve been visiting Aspen for the past five years, and it has become one of my favorite trips of the year. What keeps me coming back is the perfect balance of adventure and luxury—days spent skiing some of the best mountains in Colorado, followed by cozy accommodations, incredible restaurants, and world-class shopping.


In this guide, I’m sharing everything I love about Aspen, including where to ski, where to eat, where to shop, and a few other can’t-miss experiences that make this mountain town so special. Whether you’re planning your first visit or your fifth, these are the places and experiences I always look forward to returning to.

Red Aspen gondola cable car over snowy mountain slopes.

Where to ski

Aspen Mountain (Ajax)

Aspen Mountain—known locally as Ajax—is the mountain right in the heart of town and one of the most iconic places to ski in Aspen. The best way up is on the Silver Queen Gondola. If you know, you know: the red gondolas let you connect your phone via Bluetooth, making the 15-minute ride up the mountain feel like its own little après-ski party.

Of Aspen’s four mountains, this is the most challenging in my opinion. Even after five years of skiing Aspen, I still find many of the blue runs here ski more like black diamonds. It’s steep, technical, and exhilarating.

One of my favorite spots is Sundeck at the top of the mountain. Whether you’re stopping for lunch, a drink, or just some people-watching, it’s always buzzing with energy. Grab a hot chocolate, warm up by the fireplace, and don’t miss the beautiful photography by Gray Malin displayed throughout the lodge. I was lucky enough to meet him there one year, and he was just as friendly and approachable as he seems.

If you’re up for a challenge, ski down to Bonnie’s for their famous pancakes. The run is steep, but the views—and the reward at the bottom—are absolutely worth it.

Snowmass

Snowmass is the largest of Aspen’s four mountains, with more terrain than the others combined. It’s known for its beginner-friendly slopes, and it’s where I learned to ski and took both group and private lessons—both were excellent for building confidence on the mountain.

While it’s often seen as the best place for beginners, there’s also plenty of more challenging terrain. Because so many people stick to the easier runs, the harder areas often feel less crowded than you’d expect.

It’s such a large mountain that you can spend a lot of time just exploring different sections and still feel like there’s more to see. After skiing, Venga Venga is a great spot for après—grab a drink and soak up the atmosphere.

Buttermilk

Buttermilk is another great Aspen mountain with lots of beginner-friendly terrain, making it an easy and fun place to ski.

One of my favorite things to do here is stop at the Buttermilk Mountain Lodge at the base of the mountain for the mac and cheese with bacon and all the toppings like Parmesan and other rich cheeses—it’s so good. They also have a surprisingly elevated selection of wines and top-shelf spirits, which makes it feel more high-end than you’d expect for a mountain restaurant.

It’s also the home of the Winter X Games Aspen, so it’s fun to visit and see the setup when it’s in place. 

Aspen Highlands

Aspen Highlands has a more local, laid-back vibe and is a favorite among regulars in Aspen. The terrain is super fun and leans more advanced, with a steep, challenging final pitch that makes for an exciting finish.

It also has great on-mountain dining, and the whole experience feels a bit less crowded and more relaxed compared to the other mountains. Overall, it’s an incredibly fun mountain with a great energy.

Thing to do in Aspen beyond skiing

Snowmobiling at T-Lazy-7 Ranch

We’ve gone snowmobiling with T-Lazy-7 Ranch several times, and it’s always one of the highlights of our trip. The guided tour takes you to the stunning Maroon Bells, with incredible mountain views along the way. Lunch is included, the staff is incredibly friendly, and they make several stops so everyone can get out, take photos, and enjoy the scenery. If you’re looking for an unforgettable Aspen adventure beyond the ski slopes, this is a must-do.

Snowshoeing with ACES

For a slower-paced adventure, we loved snowshoeing with ACES at both Aspen Mountain and Snowmass. The guided tours offer a unique opportunity to learn about Colorado’s ecosystem, wildlife, and watersheds while exploring the mountains on foot. It’s a beautiful way to slow down, appreciate the scenery, and experience a different side of Aspen. You may even spot some wildlife along the way.

E-biking to Maroon Bells

During a spring visit, we rented e-bikes from Aspen Bikes and rode to Maroon Bells. The scenery was incredible, and the e-bikes made the uphill sections much more enjoyable. Temperatures can change quickly as you gain elevation, so dressing in layers is a good idea. The views are absolutely stunning and make for an unforgettable day outdoors.

John Denver Sanctuary

For a peaceful break from the slopes, take a walk through the John Denver Sanctuary. Located along the Roaring Fork River, it’s a beautiful spot to wander among the gardens, streams, and engraved stones featuring lyrics from John Denver’s songs. It’s especially pretty after a fresh snowfall.

Aspen Art Museum

If you’re looking for an indoor activity, the Aspen Art Museum is worth a visit. The museum features rotating contemporary art exhibitions throughout the year, making each visit unique. It’s a fun way to break up a ski trip and experience another side of Aspen’s culture beyond the mountains.

My Aspen outfits

What to pack for Aspen

After visiting Aspen for five ski seasons, including both winter and spring ski trips, I’ve learned exactly what to pack. For evenings out and exploring town, I always bring Mother jeans, sweaters, turtlenecks, heels, a Frame leather skirt, and a warm fur coat. Aspen is one of those places where it’s fun to get dressed up, whether you’re heading to dinner, enjoying après-ski, or strolling through town. Don’t be afraid to bring your favorite designer pieces—Van Cleef jewelry and designer handbags are everywhere, and my Bottega Veneta bag always makes the trip. I also recommend packing a pair of snow boots, as sidewalks can be snowy and slushy, and regular shoes get dirty quickly. My Tory Burch down jacket is another must-have and is perfect for early morning coffee walks through town while the snow is still falling. If you’re visiting in the spring, be prepared for warmer temperatures as well. I always pack hiking boots, athletic wear, and a hat, which comes in handy for sunny afternoons spent hiking.

For skiing, I highly recommend investing in a quality ski suit. I’ve worn my Bogner Fire + Ice ski suit for the past four years, and it still looks great. You’ll also want plenty of layers, including Hot Chillys long underwear, a base layer, and Columbia fleece, along with a gaiter for colder days, warm mittens with fleece liners, and Smartwool ski socks designed to fit comfortably inside ski boots. Don’t forget a good pair of Smith goggles, which are essential for bright bluebird days on the mountain. I also recommend investing in your own ski boots if you plan to ski regularly. I purchased mine at Four Mountain Sports in Aspen, and the experience was excellent. The team reviewed the rental boots I had used on previous trips, helped determine the right fit, and custom molded the boots to my feet. At around $500, they were surprisingly reasonable and have made every ski day more comfortable.

Where to stay in Aspen

My favorite places to stay in Aspen

When it comes to hotels in Aspen, my favorite is the St. Regis, located at the base of Aspen Mountain and known for truly top-notch service. On one trip, the staff upgraded our room and helped us celebrate my husband passing a big financial exam with champagne and a thoughtful note, which made the stay extra special. It’s an elegant, cozy-luxury property with great amenities like outdoor fire pits, a beautiful pool and hot tubs, a unique bar, and complimentary airport pickup from Aspen/Pitkin County Airport, plus complimentary transportation around town.

We also often stay at the W Aspen, which has a modern ski-chalet vibe and a more energetic, social atmosphere. It’s a great location at the base of the mountain, and one of the standout perks is the complimentary transportation service around town—including being driven in a BMW X7—plus airport pickup and drop-off and rides to other Aspen mountains, which makes getting around incredibly easy, especially in the cold.

For a more budget-friendly stay, the Annabelle Inn is a cozy, welcoming option that’s a bit farther from the base, but still easy to get around thanks to the reliable Roaring Fork Transportation buses. It’s clean, comfortable, and has a great breakfast, warm cookies in the afternoon, and a very homey feel.

In Snowmass, the Viewline Resort stands out for its incredible ski-in/ski-out access. Being able to walk straight out of your room and ski directly to the base lifts is a huge advantage—especially since hauling skis and walking in ski boots can be a lot of work—making the convenience here hard to beat.

Our favorite restaurants

Where we love to eat in Aspen

Aspen has no shortage of incredible restaurants, and a few have become must-visits on every trip. For a cozy lunch, we love J-Bar—the cheeseburger is legendary, and their chicken noodle soup is the ultimate comfort food after a cold morning on the mountain.

Ajax Tavern is another favorite. Whether you’re sitting inside or outside watching skiers come down Aspen Mountain, the atmosphere is unbeatable. Don’t miss the truffle fries, oysters, Caesar salad with quinoa, or the grilled cheese and tomato soup.

White House Tavern is always a delicious choice, especially for their famous chicken sandwich. For something uniquely Aspen, Meat & Cheese is a must. We love sharing the boards, especially the bossam board option and the chicken and potato board with its incredible buttery sauce. The attached market is perfect for picking up picnic supplies, wine, or local treats.

For a special dinner, Steakhouse No. 316 and Monarch are both excellent. The food is outstanding, and both feel like true Aspen institutions rather than restaurants you could find anywhere.

And of course, no Aspen morning is complete without a stop at Paradise Bakery for coffee and a warm cinnamon roll. It’s one of our favorite spots to start the day.

My favorite places to shop in Aspen

Shopping in Aspen

The shopping in Aspen is incredible, with everything from luxury designer boutiques to unique local shops. My favorite stop is Four Mountain Sports, which is my go-to for ski rentals, boot fittings, and Aspen-branded gear. They keep detailed records of your equipment preferences—from skis and boots to helmets and other gear—which makes the rental process so easy year after year. Carl’s Pharmacy is another Aspen institution and somehow has everything—from beauty products and gifts to clothing, toys, and local artwork. For a cozy afternoon, I love browsing Explore Booksellers, a charming bookstore with a café upstairs. For fashion, Pitkin County Dry Goods carries a great mix of designer clothing, jewelry, and Western-inspired pieces. Gorsuch, with locations in both Aspen and Snowmass, is another favorite for beautiful ski wear, home goods, fine linens, and thoughtful gifts.


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